Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Journal article


Baláš, Jiří, Michailov, Michail, Giles, David, Kodejška, Jan, Panáčková, Michaela and Fryer, Simon 2015. Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198
AuthorsBaláš, Jiří, Michailov, Michail, Giles, David, Kodejška, Jan, Panáčková, Michaela and Fryer, Simon
Abstract

This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time–force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time–force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (↑ 22%, P < .05), force–time integral (↑ 28%, P < .05) and faster muscle re-oxygenation (↑ 32%, P < .05), when compared to the hand over hold condition. Further, the ratio of intermittent to continuous test time distinguished specific aerobic muscular adaptations among sport climbers (2.02), boulderers (1.74) and lower grade climbers (1.25). Lower grade climbers and boulderers produced shorter duration contractions due to the slower development of target force during the intermittent test, indicating worse kinaesthetic differentiation. Both the type of recovery and climbing discipline determined muscle re-oxygenation and intermittent performance in rock climbers.

KeywordsSport climbing; Bouldering; Oxygenation; Forearms; Spectroscopy
Year2015
JournalEuropean Journal of Sport Science
PublisherTaylor & Francis
ISSN1746-1391
1536-7290
Digital Object Identifier (DOI)https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198
Web address (URL)http://hdl.handle.net/10545/621136
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
hdl:10545/621136
Publication dates19 Dec 2015
Publication process dates
Deposited09 Dec 2016, 10:29
Rights

Archived with thanks to European Journal of Sport Science

ContributorsThe University of Derby
File
File Access Level
Open
File
File Access Level
Open
File
File Access Level
Open
Permalink -

https://repository.derby.ac.uk/item/94q58/active-recovery-of-the-finger-flexors-enhances-intermittent-handgrip-performance-in-rock-climbers

Download files

  • 30
    total views
  • 16
    total downloads
  • 1
    views this month
  • 0
    downloads this month

Export as

Related outputs

A pragmatic controlled trial of forest bathing compared with compassionate mind training in the UK: impacts on self- reported wellbeing and heart rate variability
McEwan, Kirsten, Giles, David, Clarke, Fiona, Kotera, Y., Evans, Gary, Terebenina, Olga, Minou, Lina, Teeling, Claire, Basran, Jaskaran, Wood, Wendy and Weil, Dominic 2021. A pragmatic controlled trial of forest bathing compared with compassionate mind training in the UK: impacts on self- reported wellbeing and heart rate variability. Sustainability. 13 (3). https://doi.org/10.3390/su13031380
The visual search strategies underpinning effective observational analysis in the coaching of climbing movement
Mitchell, James, Maratos, Frances, A, Giles, David, Taylor, Nicola, Butterworth, Andrew and Sheffield, David 2020. The visual search strategies underpinning effective observational analysis in the coaching of climbing movement. Frontiers. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2020.01025
Using figured worlds to explore parents' attitudes and influences for choosing the content of primary school packed lunches
Jackson, Jessica, Giles, David and Gerrard, Clarabelle 2019. Using figured worlds to explore parents' attitudes and influences for choosing the content of primary school packed lunches. MAG Online Library. https://doi.org/10.12968/bjsn.2019.14.7.335
The determination of finger flexor critical force in rock climbers
Giles, David, Chidley, J., Taylor, Nicola, Torr, Ollie, Hadley, Josh, Randall, Tom and Fryer, Simon 2019. The determination of finger flexor critical force in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance.
Evaluating the role of patient facing pharmacists in a GP practice setting.
Lewis, Rachel and Giles, David 2018. Evaluating the role of patient facing pharmacists in a GP practice setting.
Oral nutritional supplements in care homes and the community: Nutrition review and staff education.
Giles, David, Lewis, Rachel and Ward, Derek 2018. Oral nutritional supplements in care homes and the community: Nutrition review and staff education. University of Derby.
Physical activity and sport evaluation toolkit.
Giles, David 2018. Physical activity and sport evaluation toolkit. County Sports Partnerships Network.
Using behavioural insights to improve the healthiness of children’s packed lunches.
Jackson, Jessica, Ward, Derek, Giles, David, Bunten, Amanda, Howell-Jones, Rebecca and Burgess-Allen, Jilla 2017. Using behavioural insights to improve the healthiness of children’s packed lunches. Oxford University Press. https://doi.org/10.1093/eurpub/ckx187.316
Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers
Fryer, Simon, Stone, Keeron, Sveen, Joakim, Dickson, Tabitha, España-Romero, Vanesa, Giles, David, Baláš, Jiří, Stoner, Lee and Draper, Nick 2017. Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2017.1353135
The role and value of medicines management work packages 1 & 2
Giles, David, Lewis, Rachel and Ward, Derek 2017. The role and value of medicines management work packages 1 & 2. Southern Derbyshire County Council.
Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance
Fryer, Simon, Giles, David, Palomino, Inmaculada Garrido, Puerta, Alejandro de la O and Romero, Vanesa España 2018. Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860
Shoulder muscle activity in sport climbing in naturally chosen and corrected shoulder positions
Baláš, Jiří, Duchačová, Alena, Giles, David, Kotalíková, Kateřina, Pánek, David and Draper, Nick 2017. Shoulder muscle activity in sport climbing in naturally chosen and corrected shoulder positions. The Open Sports Sciences Journal. https://doi.org/10.2174/1875399X01710010107
Heart rate variability during exercise: A comparison of artefact correction methods
Giles, David and Draper, Nick 2018. Heart rate variability during exercise: A comparison of artefact correction methods. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000001800
Psychophysiological and emotional antecedents of climbing performance
Giles, David 2017. Psychophysiological and emotional antecedents of climbing performance. PhD Thesis https://doi.org/10.48773/93q91
Physiological demands of indoor wall climbing in children
Panáčková, Michaela, Baláš, Jiří, Bunc, Václav and Giles, David 2015. Physiological demands of indoor wall climbing in children. Sports Technology. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2014.968251
Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement
Draper, Nick, Giles, David, Schöffl, Volker, Konstantin Fuss, Franz, Watts, Phillip, Wolf, Peter, Baláš, Jiří, España-Romero, Vanesa, Blunt Gonzalez, Gina, Fryer, Simon, Fanchini, Maurizio, Vigouroux, Laurent, Seifert, Ludovic, Donath, Lars, Spoerri, Manuel, Bonetti, Kelios, Phillips, Kevin, Stöcker, Urs, Bourassa-Moreau, Felix, Garrido, Inmaculada, Drum, Scott, Beekmeyer, Stuart, Ziltener, Jean-Luc, Taylor, Nicola, Beeretz, Ina, Mally, Franziska, Mithat Amca, Arif, Linhart, Caroline and Abreu, Edgardo 2016. Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement. Sports Technology. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2015.1107081
Alterations in autonomic cardiac modulation in response to normobaric hypoxia
Giles, David, Kelly, John and Draper, Nick 2016. Alterations in autonomic cardiac modulation in response to normobaric hypoxia. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2016.1207708
Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers
Giles, David, España-Romero, Vanesa, Garrido, Inmaculada, de la O Puerta, Alex, Stone, Keeron and Fryer, Simon 2016. Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. https://doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2015-0651
Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance
Fryer, Simon, Stoner, Lee, Stone, Keeron, Giles, David, Sveen, Joakim, Garrido, Inmaculada and España-Romero, Vanesa 2016. Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance. European Journal of Applied Physiology. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-016-3403-1
The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing
Baláš, Jiří, Giles, David, Chrastinová, Leona, Kárníková, Kateřina, Kodejška, Jan, Hlaváčková, Alžběta, Vomáčko, Ladislav and Draper, Nick 2016. The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2016.1206667
Current understanding in climbing psychophysiology research
Giles, David, Draper, Nick, Gilliver, Peter, Taylor, Nicola, Mitchell, James, Birch, Linda, Woodhead, Joseph, Blackwell, Gavin and Hamlin, Michael J. 2014. Current understanding in climbing psychophysiology research. Sports Technology. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2014.968166
Validity of the Polar V800 heart rate monitor to measure RR intervals at rest
Neil, William, Giles, David and Draper, Nick 2015. Validity of the Polar V800 heart rate monitor to measure RR intervals at rest. European Journal of Applied Physiology. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-015-3303-9