The determination of finger flexor critical force in rock climbers

Journal article


Giles, David, Chidley, J., Taylor, Nicola, Torr, Ollie, Hadley, Josh, Randall, Tom and Fryer, Simon 2019. The determination of finger flexor critical force in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance.
AuthorsGiles, David, Chidley, J., Taylor, Nicola, Torr, Ollie, Hadley, Josh, Randall, Tom and Fryer, Simon
Abstract

Purpose: To determine if the mathematical model used for the estimation of critical force (CF) and the energy store component W’ is applicable to intermittent isometric muscle actions of the finger flexors of rock climbers, using a multi-session test. As a secondary aim, the agreement of estimates of CF and W’ from a single-session test were also determined. The CF was defined as the slope coefficient and W’ the intercept of the linear relationship between total “isometric work” (Wlim) and time to exhaustion (Tlim). Methods: Subjects performed three (separated by either 20 m or >24 h) tests to failure using intermittent isometric finger flexor contractions at 45, 60 and 80% of their maximum voluntary contraction (MVC). Results: Force plotted against Tlim displayed a hyperbolic relationship, correlation coefficients of the parameter estimates from the work–time CF model were consistently very high (R2 > 0.94). Climbers mean CF was 425.7 ± 82.8 N (41.0 ± 6.2% MVC) and W’ 30882 ± 11820 N·s. Good agreement was found between the single and multi-session protocol for CF (ICC(3,1) = 0.900, 95% Confidence Interval [CI95%] 0.616 – 0.979), but not for W’ (ICC(3,1) = 0.768, CI95% 0.190 – 0.949). Conclusions: The results demonstrated the sensitivity of a simple test for the determination of CF and W’, using equipment readily available in most climbing gyms. While further work is still necessary, the test of CF described is of value for understanding exercise tolerance and determine optimal training prescription to monitor improvements the performance of the finger flexors.

KeywordsRock Climbing; Exercise Testing; Anaerobic Capacity; Power-duration relationship; Critical Force
Year2019
JournalInternational Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance
PublisherHuman Kinetics
ISSN1555-0265
Web address (URL)http://hdl.handle.net/10545/623485
hdl:10545/623485
Publication datesApr 2019
Publication process dates
Deposited07 Feb 2019, 15:50
Accepted20 Dec 2018
ContributorsUniversity of Derby
File
File Access Level
Open
File
File Access Level
Open
Permalink -

https://repository.derby.ac.uk/item/93024/the-determination-of-finger-flexor-critical-force-in-rock-climbers

Download files

  • 44
    total views
  • 39
    total downloads
  • 1
    views this month
  • 0
    downloads this month

Export as

Related outputs

Quantifying the traverse: a comprehensive kinematic analysis of climbing technique
Andrews-Cifre, J., Bailey, S. and Taylor, N. 2024. Quantifying the traverse: a comprehensive kinematic analysis of climbing technique. BASES Student Conference 2024, Manchester Metropolitan University 3-4 April 2024. Northumbria University . https://doi.org/10.19164/gjsscmr.v1i3.1521
Kinematic Profiles and Performance Insights of National-level Speed Climbers
Briley, S., Taylor, N., Outram, T., Chidley, J. and Mitchell, J. 2024. Kinematic Profiles and Performance Insights of National-level Speed Climbers. British Association of Sport and Exercise Science - Biomechanics and Motor control Interest group. Online 07 - 07 Jun 2023
Impact and Implementation of an Early Years Fundamental Motor Skills Intervention for Children 4–5 Years
Roscoe, C., Taylor, N., Weir, N., Flynn, R. and Pringle, A. 2024. Impact and Implementation of an Early Years Fundamental Motor Skills Intervention for Children 4–5 Years. Children. 11 (4), p. 416. https://doi.org/10.3390/children11040416
Upper limb kinematics of an elite climber during a power slap task
Briley, S., Mitchell, J., Taylor, N., Chidley, J. and Outram, T. 2023. Upper limb kinematics of an elite climber during a power slap task. European College of Sport Science.
Full body joint kinematics of experienced climbers during a standardised traverse
Briley, S., Mitchell, J., Taylor, N., Chidley, J., Divall, H and Outram, T. 2023. Full body joint kinematics of experienced climbers during a standardised traverse . British Association of Sport and Exercise Science - Biomechanics and Motor control Interest group. Online 07 - 07 Jun 2023
A pragmatic controlled trial of forest bathing compared with compassionate mind training in the UK: impacts on self- reported wellbeing and heart rate variability
McEwan, Kirsten, Giles, David, Clarke, Fiona, Kotera, Y., Evans, Gary, Terebenina, Olga, Minou, Lina, Teeling, Claire, Basran, Jaskaran, Wood, Wendy and Weil, Dominic 2021. A pragmatic controlled trial of forest bathing compared with compassionate mind training in the UK: impacts on self- reported wellbeing and heart rate variability. Sustainability. 13 (3). https://doi.org/10.3390/su13031380
The visual search strategies underpinning effective observational analysis in the coaching of climbing movement
Mitchell, James, Maratos, Frances, A, Giles, David, Taylor, Nicola, Butterworth, Andrew and Sheffield, David 2020. The visual search strategies underpinning effective observational analysis in the coaching of climbing movement. Frontiers. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2020.01025
Using figured worlds to explore parents' attitudes and influences for choosing the content of primary school packed lunches
Jackson, Jessica, Giles, David and Gerrard, Clarabelle 2019. Using figured worlds to explore parents' attitudes and influences for choosing the content of primary school packed lunches. MAG Online Library. https://doi.org/10.12968/bjsn.2019.14.7.335
Evaluating the role of patient facing pharmacists in a GP practice setting.
Lewis, Rachel and Giles, David 2018. Evaluating the role of patient facing pharmacists in a GP practice setting.
Oral nutritional supplements in care homes and the community: Nutrition review and staff education.
Giles, David, Lewis, Rachel and Ward, Derek 2018. Oral nutritional supplements in care homes and the community: Nutrition review and staff education. University of Derby.
Physical activity and sport evaluation toolkit.
Giles, David 2018. Physical activity and sport evaluation toolkit. County Sports Partnerships Network.
Using behavioural insights to improve the healthiness of children’s packed lunches.
Jackson, Jessica, Ward, Derek, Giles, David, Bunten, Amanda, Howell-Jones, Rebecca and Burgess-Allen, Jilla 2017. Using behavioural insights to improve the healthiness of children’s packed lunches. Oxford University Press. https://doi.org/10.1093/eurpub/ckx187.316
Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers
Fryer, Simon, Stone, Keeron, Sveen, Joakim, Dickson, Tabitha, España-Romero, Vanesa, Giles, David, Baláš, Jiří, Stoner, Lee and Draper, Nick 2017. Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2017.1353135
The role and value of medicines management work packages 1 & 2
Giles, David, Lewis, Rachel and Ward, Derek 2017. The role and value of medicines management work packages 1 & 2. Southern Derbyshire County Council.
Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance
Fryer, Simon, Giles, David, Palomino, Inmaculada Garrido, Puerta, Alejandro de la O and Romero, Vanesa España 2018. Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860
Shoulder muscle activity in sport climbing in naturally chosen and corrected shoulder positions
Baláš, Jiří, Duchačová, Alena, Giles, David, Kotalíková, Kateřina, Pánek, David and Draper, Nick 2017. Shoulder muscle activity in sport climbing in naturally chosen and corrected shoulder positions. The Open Sports Sciences Journal. https://doi.org/10.2174/1875399X01710010107
Heart rate variability during exercise: A comparison of artefact correction methods
Giles, David and Draper, Nick 2018. Heart rate variability during exercise: A comparison of artefact correction methods. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000001800
Psychophysiological and emotional antecedents of climbing performance
Giles, David 2017. Psychophysiological and emotional antecedents of climbing performance. PhD Thesis https://doi.org/10.48773/93q91
Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers
Baláš, Jiří, Michailov, Michail, Giles, David, Kodejška, Jan, Panáčková, Michaela and Fryer, Simon 2015. Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198
Physiological demands of indoor wall climbing in children
Panáčková, Michaela, Baláš, Jiří, Bunc, Václav and Giles, David 2015. Physiological demands of indoor wall climbing in children. Sports Technology. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2014.968251
Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement
Draper, Nick, Giles, David, Schöffl, Volker, Konstantin Fuss, Franz, Watts, Phillip, Wolf, Peter, Baláš, Jiří, España-Romero, Vanesa, Blunt Gonzalez, Gina, Fryer, Simon, Fanchini, Maurizio, Vigouroux, Laurent, Seifert, Ludovic, Donath, Lars, Spoerri, Manuel, Bonetti, Kelios, Phillips, Kevin, Stöcker, Urs, Bourassa-Moreau, Felix, Garrido, Inmaculada, Drum, Scott, Beekmeyer, Stuart, Ziltener, Jean-Luc, Taylor, Nicola, Beeretz, Ina, Mally, Franziska, Mithat Amca, Arif, Linhart, Caroline and Abreu, Edgardo 2016. Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement. Sports Technology. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2015.1107081
Alterations in autonomic cardiac modulation in response to normobaric hypoxia
Giles, David, Kelly, John and Draper, Nick 2016. Alterations in autonomic cardiac modulation in response to normobaric hypoxia. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2016.1207708
Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers
Giles, David, España-Romero, Vanesa, Garrido, Inmaculada, de la O Puerta, Alex, Stone, Keeron and Fryer, Simon 2016. Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. https://doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2015-0651
Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance
Fryer, Simon, Stoner, Lee, Stone, Keeron, Giles, David, Sveen, Joakim, Garrido, Inmaculada and España-Romero, Vanesa 2016. Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance. European Journal of Applied Physiology. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-016-3403-1
The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing
Baláš, Jiří, Giles, David, Chrastinová, Leona, Kárníková, Kateřina, Kodejška, Jan, Hlaváčková, Alžběta, Vomáčko, Ladislav and Draper, Nick 2016. The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2016.1206667
Current understanding in climbing psychophysiology research
Giles, David, Draper, Nick, Gilliver, Peter, Taylor, Nicola, Mitchell, James, Birch, Linda, Woodhead, Joseph, Blackwell, Gavin and Hamlin, Michael J. 2014. Current understanding in climbing psychophysiology research. Sports Technology. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2014.968166
Validity of the Polar V800 heart rate monitor to measure RR intervals at rest
Neil, William, Giles, David and Draper, Nick 2015. Validity of the Polar V800 heart rate monitor to measure RR intervals at rest. European Journal of Applied Physiology. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-015-3303-9