Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance
Journal article
Authors | Fryer, Simon, Giles, David, Palomino, Inmaculada Garrido, Puerta, Alejandro de la O and Romero, Vanesa España |
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Abstract | Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e. skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. Purpose: The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities. Methods: Using near infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen re-saturation (O2HTR) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Results: Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI and training experience, revealed a 1s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95% CI: 0.35-0.94, AdjR2 = 0.53). Conclusions: Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top 4 competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, these findings suggest that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock climbing performance. |
Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e. skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. Purpose: The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities. Methods: Using near infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen re-saturation (O2HTR) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Results: Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI and training experience, revealed a 1s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95% CI: 0.35-0.94, AdjR2 = 0.53). Conclusions: Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top 4 competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, these findings suggest that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock | |
Keywords | Oxidative capacity; Microvascular adaptation; Near infrared spectroscopy |
Year | 2018 |
Journal | Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research |
Publisher | Wolters Kluwer |
ISSN | 10648011 |
Digital Object Identifier (DOI) | https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860 |
Web address (URL) | http://hdl.handle.net/10545/621876 |
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ | |
hdl:10545/621876 | |
Publication dates | 01 Dec 2018 |
Publication process dates | |
Deposited | 04 Oct 2017, 11:46 |
Accepted | 02 Aug 2017 |
Rights | Archived with thanks to Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research |
Contributors | University of Gloucestershire, University of Derby, Centro de Investigaciones Energéticas, Medioambientales y Tecnológicas, University of Granada and University of Cádiz, |
File | |
File | File Access Level Open |
File | File Access Level Open |
https://repository.derby.ac.uk/item/92211/hemodynamic-and-cardiorespiratory-predictors-of-sport-rock-climbing-performance
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