Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers

Journal article


Giles, David, España-Romero, Vanesa, Garrido, Inmaculada, de la O Puerta, Alex, Stone, Keeron and Fryer, Simon 2016. Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. https://doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2015-0651
AuthorsGiles, David, España-Romero, Vanesa, Garrido, Inmaculada, de la O Puerta, Alex, Stone, Keeron and Fryer, Simon
Abstract

Purpose. This study examined differences in oxygenation kinetics in the non-dominant and dominant flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) of rock climbers. Methods. Participants consisted of 28 sport climbers with a range of on-sight abilities (6a+ to 8a French Sport). Using near infrared spectroscopy, oxygenation kinetics of the FDP was assessed by calculating the time to half recovery (t½ recovery) of the tissue saturation index (TSI) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Results. A 2-way mixed model ANOVA found a non-significant interaction (p =0.112) for TSI x sex. However, there was a significant the main effect (p =0.027) handedness (dominant vs. non-dominant FDP). The dominant forearm recovered 13.6% quicker (t½ recovery mean difference = 1.12 sec, 95% CI 0.13 to 2.10 sec) compared to the non-dominant FDP. This was not affected by 6-month on-sight climbing ability or sex (p =0.839, p =0.683). Conclusions. Significant intra-individual differences in oxygenation kinetics of the FDP were found. Improvements in oxygenation kinetics within the FDP are likely due to the abilities of the muscle to deliver, perfuse and consume oxygen. These enhancements may be due to structural adaptations in the microvasculature such as an increase in capillary density and an enhanced improvement in capillary filtration.

KeywordsRock climbing; Asymmetry; Handedness; Oxygenation kinetics; Near infrared spectroscopy
Year2016
JournalInternational Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance
PublisherHuman Kinetics
ISSN1555-0265
1555-0273
Digital Object Identifier (DOI)https://doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2015-0651
Web address (URL)http://hdl.handle.net/10545/621060
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
hdl:10545/621060
Publication dates24 Aug 2016
Publication process dates
Deposited25 Nov 2016, 10:02
Accepted03 Apr 2016
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Archived with thanks to International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance

ContributorsUniversity of Derby, University of Cadiz, Andalusian Mountain Federation, University of Granada and University of Gloucestershire
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