The visual search strategies underpinning effective observational analysis in the coaching of climbing movement
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Mitchell, James, Maratos, Frances, A, Giles, David, Taylor, Nicola, Butterworth, Andrew and Sheffield, David 2020. The visual search strategies underpinning effective observational analysis in the coaching of climbing movement. Frontiers. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2020.01025
| Authors | Mitchell, James, Maratos, Frances, A, Giles, David, Taylor, Nicola, Butterworth, Andrew and Sheffield, David |
|---|---|
| Abstract | Despite the importance of effective observational analysis in coaching the technical aspects of climbing performance, limited research informs this aspect of climbing coach education. Thus, the purpose of the present research was to explore the feasibility and the utility of a novel methodology, combining eye tracking technology and cued retrospective think-aloud (RTA), to capture the cognitive–perceptual mechanisms that underpin the visual search behaviors of climbing coaches. An analysis of gaze data revealed that expert climbing coaches demonstrate fewer fixations of greater duration and fixate on distinctly different areas of the visual display than their novice counterparts. Cued RTA further demonstrated differences in the cognitive–perceptual mechanisms underpinning these visual search strategies, with expert coaches being more cognizant of their visual search strategy. To expand, the gaze behavior of expert climbing coaches was underpinned by hierarchical and complex knowledge structures relating to the |
| Keywords | eye tracking, think-aloud, sport, education, expertise, gaze behavior, coaching |
| Year | 2020 |
| Publisher | Frontiers |
| ISSN | 1664-1078 |
| Digital Object Identifier (DOI) | https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2020.01025 |
| Web address (URL) | http://hdl.handle.net/10545/624884 |
| http://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/ | |
| hdl:10545/624884 | |
| File | File Access Level Open |
| File | File Access Level Open |
| Publication dates | 28 May 2020 |
| Publication process dates | |
| Deposited | 16 Jun 2020, 15:12 |
| Accepted | 24 Apr 2020 |
| Rights | CC0 1.0 Universal |
| Journal | Frontiers in Psychology |
| Contributors | University of Derby and Lattice Training Ltd., Chesterfield |
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Kotera, Y., Green, Pauline and Sheffield, David 2020. Positive psychology for mental wellbeing of uk therapeutic students: Relationships with engagement, motivation, resilience, and self-compassion. International Journal of Mental Health and Addiction. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11469-020-00466-yGroup singing improves quality of life for people with Parkinson’s: an international study
Irons, J. Yoon, Hancox, Grenville, Vella-Burrows, Trish, Han, E-Y, Chong, H-J, Sheffield, David and Stewart, Donald E 2020. Group singing improves quality of life for people with Parkinson’s: an international study. Aging and Mental Health. 25 (4), pp. 650-656. https://doi.org/10.1080/13607863.2020.1720599Exploring the international utility of progressing compassionate mind training in school settings: a comparison of implementation effectiveness of the same curricula in the UK and Portugal
Maratos, Frances A., Matos, Marcela, Alberquerque, Isabel, Wood, Wendy, Palmeira, Lara, Cuna, Marina, Lima, Margarida and Gilbert, Paul 2020. Exploring the international utility of progressing compassionate mind training in school settings: a comparison of implementation effectiveness of the same curricula in the UK and Portugal. The Psychology of Education Review.An integrative systematic review of creative arts interventions for older informal caregivers of people with neurological conditions
Irons, J Yoon, Garip, Gulcan, Cross, Ainslea J, Sheffield, David and Bird, Jamie 2020. An integrative systematic review of creative arts interventions for older informal caregivers of people with neurological conditions. PLos ONE. 15 (12), p. e0243461. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0243461Revisiting the self-compassion scale-short form: Stronger associations with self-inadequacy and resilience
Kotera, Y. and Sheffield, David 2020. Revisiting the self-compassion scale-short form: Stronger associations with self-inadequacy and resilience. SN Comprehensive Clinical Medicine. https://doi.org/10.1007/s42399-020-00309-wUsing figured worlds to explore parents' attitudes and influences for choosing the content of primary school packed lunches
Jackson, Jessica, Giles, David and Gerrard, Clarabelle 2019. Using figured worlds to explore parents' attitudes and influences for choosing the content of primary school packed lunches. MAG Online Library. https://doi.org/10.12968/bjsn.2019.14.7.335A smartphone app for improving mental health through connecting with urban nature
McEwan, Kirsten, Richardson, Miles, Sheffield, David, Ferguson, Fiona and Brindley, Paul 2019. A smartphone app for improving mental health through connecting with urban nature. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph16183373A group singing program improves quality of life: An international study
Irons, J. Yoon, Hancox, Grenville, Vella-Burrows, Trish, Han, E-Y, Chong, H-J, Sheffield, David and Stewart, Donald E 2019. A group singing program improves quality of life: An international study. University of Derby.Mental contrasting for health behaviour change: a systematic review and meta-analysis of effects and moderator variables
Cross, Ainslea and Sheffield, David 2019. Mental contrasting for health behaviour change: a systematic review and meta-analysis of effects and moderator variables. Health Psychology Review. https://doi.org/10.1080/17437199.2019.1594332Raising the profile of health psychology training, consultancy and practice issues through the new Health Psychology Update sub-section.
Cross, Ainslea and Sheffield, David 2019. Raising the profile of health psychology training, consultancy and practice issues through the new Health Psychology Update sub-section. Health Psychology Update.What drives prioritized visual processing? A motivational relevance account
Maratos, Frances A. and Pessoa, Luiz 2019. What drives prioritized visual processing? A motivational relevance account. Progress in Brain Research. https://doi.org/10.1016/bs.pbr.2019.03.028The Relationship Between Nature Connectedness and Eudaimonic Well-Being: A Meta-analysis
Alison Pritchard, Miles Richardson, David Sheffield and Kirsten McEwan 2019. The Relationship Between Nature Connectedness and Eudaimonic Well-Being: A Meta-analysis. Journal of Happiness Studies. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10902-019-00118-6An international study of analgesic dependence among people with pain in the general population
Omimah, Said, Elander, James and Maratos, Frances A. 2019. An international study of analgesic dependence among people with pain in the general population. Substance Use and Misuse. https://doi.org/10.1080/10826084.2019.1577457Searching compassion in a crowd: Evaluation of a novel compassion visual search task to reduce self-criticism
McEwan, Kirsten, Dandeneau, Stephane, Gilbert, Paul, Maratos, Frances, Andrew, Lucy, Chotai, Shivani and Elander, James 2019. Searching compassion in a crowd: Evaluation of a novel compassion visual search task to reduce self-criticism. EC PSYCHOLOGY AND PSYCHIATRY.Shmapped: development of an app to record and promote the well-being benefits of noticing urban nature
McEwan, Kirsten, Richardson, Miles, Brindley, Paul, Sheffield, David, Tait, Crawford, Johnson, Steve, Sutch, Hana and Ferguson, Fiona 2019. Shmapped: development of an app to record and promote the well-being benefits of noticing urban nature. Translational Behavioral Medicine. https://doi.org/10.1093/tbm/ibz027An exploration of formal and informal mindfulness practice and associations with wellbeing.
Birtwell, Kelly, Williams, Kate, van Marwijk, Harm, Armitage, Christopher J. and Sheffield, David 2018. An exploration of formal and informal mindfulness practice and associations with wellbeing. Mindfulness. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12671-018-0951-yAnalyzing Objective and Subjective Data in Social Sciences: Implications for Smart Cities
Erhan, L., Ndubuaku, M., Ferrara, E., Richardson, M., Sheffield, D., Ferguson, F.J., Brindley, P. and Liotta, A. 2019. Analyzing Objective and Subjective Data in Social Sciences: Implications for Smart Cities. IEEE Access. Vol 7 (2019, Article: 8633833), pp. 19890-19906. https://doi.org/10.1109/access.2019.2897217The Negative Impact of a Three Good Things Intervention on Perceived Stress and Psychological Health
Miles Richardson and David Sheffield 2019. The Negative Impact of a Three Good Things Intervention on Perceived Stress and Psychological Health. https://doi.org/10.31234/osf.io/p463yNLP for Japanese workers’ mental well-being: pilot study
Kotera, Y. and Sheffield, D. 2019. NLP for Japanese workers’ mental well-being: pilot study. Mental Health Review Journal. https://doi.org/10.1108/mhrj-09-2018-0030A systematic review on the effects of group singing on persistent pain in people with long‐term health conditions
Irons, J. Yoon, Sheffield, David, Ballington, Freddie and Stewart, Donald E 2019. A systematic review on the effects of group singing on persistent pain in people with long‐term health conditions. European Journal of Pain. https://doi.org/10.1002/ejp.1485Roles of positive psychology for mental health in UK social work students: self-compassion as a predictor of better mental health
Kotera, Y., Green, Pauline and Sheffield, David 2019. Roles of positive psychology for mental health in UK social work students: self-compassion as a predictor of better mental health. British Journal of Social Work. https://doi.org/10.1093/bjsw/bcz149Evaluation of a compassionate mind training intervention with school teachers and support staff
Maratos, Frances, Montague, Jane, Ashra, Hajra, Welford, Mary, Wood, Wendy, Barnes, Christopher, Sheffield, David and Gilbert, Paul 2019. Evaluation of a compassionate mind training intervention with school teachers and support staff. Mindfulness. 10, p. 2245–2258. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12671-019-01185-9Assessing Domain Specificity in the Measurement of Mathematics Calculation Anxiety
Hunt, Thomas E., Bagdasar, Ovidiu, Sheffield, David and Schofield, M. 2019. Assessing Domain Specificity in the Measurement of Mathematics Calculation Anxiety. Education Research International. 2019, pp. 1-7. https://doi.org/10.1155/2019/7412193Do individuals with Chronic Pain show attentional bias to pain-related information? An early stage systematic review of the eye-tracking evidence.
Gaffiero, D., Elander, James and Maratos, Frances 2019. Do individuals with Chronic Pain show attentional bias to pain-related information? An early stage systematic review of the eye-tracking evidence. Cognitive Psychology Bulletin.Sweating the small stuff: a meta-analysis of skin conductance on the Iowa gambling task
Simonovic, B., Stupple, Edward J. N., Gale, Maggie and Sheffield, David 2019. Sweating the small stuff: a meta-analysis of skin conductance on the Iowa gambling task. Cognitive, Affective, & Behavioral Neuroscience. https://doi.org/10.3758/s13415-019-00744-wWork-life balance of UK construction workers: Relationship with mental health
Kotera, Y., Green, Pauline and Sheffield, David 2019. Work-life balance of UK construction workers: Relationship with mental health. Construction Management and Economics. https://doi.org/10.1080/01446193.2019.1625417The determination of finger flexor critical force in rock climbers
Giles, David, Chidley, J., Taylor, Nicola, Torr, Ollie, Hadley, Josh, Randall, Tom and Fryer, Simon 2019. The determination of finger flexor critical force in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance.Mental health of therapeutic students: relationships with attitudes, self-criticism, self-compassion, and caregiver identity
Kotera, Y., Green, Pauline and Sheffield, David 2019. Mental health of therapeutic students: relationships with attitudes, self-criticism, self-compassion, and caregiver identity. British Journal of Guidance & Counselling. https://doi.org/10.1080/03069885.2019.1704683Mental health shame of UK construction workers: Relationship with masculinity, work motivation, and self-compassion.
Kotera, Y., Green, Pauline and Sheffield, David 2019. Mental health shame of UK construction workers: Relationship with masculinity, work motivation, and self-compassion. Journal of Work and Organizational Psychology. https://doi.org/10.5093/jwop2019a15Acquisition, development and maintenance of maths anxiety in young children
Petronzi, D., Staples, Paul, Sheffield, David and Hunt, Thomas 2019. Acquisition, development and maintenance of maths anxiety in young children. in: Routledge.The Polycystic Ovary Syndrome Quality of Life scale (PCOSQOL): development and preliminary validation .
Williams, Sophie, Sheffield, David and Knibb, Rebecca C. 2018. The Polycystic Ovary Syndrome Quality of Life scale (PCOSQOL): development and preliminary validation . Health Psychology Open. https://doi.org/10.1177/2055102918788195The psychosocial impact of caregiving in dementia and quality of life: a systematic review and meta-synthesis of qualitative research.
Cross, Ainslea, Garip, Gulcan and Sheffield, David 2018. The psychosocial impact of caregiving in dementia and quality of life: a systematic review and meta-synthesis of qualitative research. psychology and health. https://doi.org/10.1080/08870446.2018.1496250Development of a compassion-based training for cancer (CforC) curriculum for female breast cancer patients in stages I-III and cancer survivors. Origins, rationale and initial observations.
Wahl, Julia, Sheffield, David, Maratos, Frances A. and Archer, Stephanie 2018. Development of a compassion-based training for cancer (CforC) curriculum for female breast cancer patients in stages I-III and cancer survivors. Origins, rationale and initial observations. Mindfulness & Compassion.Evaluating the role of patient facing pharmacists in a GP practice setting.
Lewis, Rachel and Giles, David 2018. Evaluating the role of patient facing pharmacists in a GP practice setting.Oral nutritional supplements in care homes and the community: Nutrition review and staff education.
Giles, David, Lewis, Rachel and Ward, Derek 2018. Oral nutritional supplements in care homes and the community: Nutrition review and staff education. University of Derby.Physical activity and sport evaluation toolkit.
Giles, David 2018. Physical activity and sport evaluation toolkit. County Sports Partnerships Network.Digital interventions to promote self-management in people with osteoarthritis: systematic review and meta-analysis - Study protocol
Safari, Reza, Jackson, Jessica, Dhadda, Buk, Watkins, Merryl, Sheffield, David, Anthony, Denis and Ward, Derek 2018. Digital interventions to promote self-management in people with osteoarthritis: systematic review and meta-analysis - Study protocol. National Health Service (NHS).Meditation-induced near-death dxperiences: a 3-year longitudinal study.
Van Gordon, William, Shonin, Edo, Dunn, Thomas J., Sheffield, David, Garcia-Campayo, Javier and Griffiths, Mark D. 2018. Meditation-induced near-death dxperiences: a 3-year longitudinal study. Mindfulness. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12671-018-0922-3The origins of disordered eating and childhood food neophobia: Applying an anxiety perspective.
Maratos, Frances A. and Sharpe, Emma 2018. The origins of disordered eating and childhood food neophobia: Applying an anxiety perspective. in: Woodhead Publishing.A pilot study mapping citizens' interaction with urban nature
Ferrara, E., Liotta, A., Erhan, L., Ndubuaku, M., Giusto, D., Richardson, M., Sheffield, D. and McEwan, K. 2018. A pilot study mapping citizens' interaction with urban nature. IEEE International Symposium on Dependable, Autonomic and Secure Computing. Athens, Greece 12 - 15 Aug 2018 IEEE. https://doi.org/10.1109/dasc/picom/datacom/cyberscitec.2018.00-21A Demographic Analysis of Urban Nature Utilization
Ferrara, E., Liotta, A., Ndubuaku, M., Erhan, L., Giusto, D., Richardson, M., Sheffield, D. and McEwan, K. 2018. A Demographic Analysis of Urban Nature Utilization. 10th Computer Science and Electronic Engineering Conference. 19 - 21 Sep 2018 IEEE Xplore. https://doi.org/10.1109/ceec.2018.8674206Creation and validation of the belief in the supernatural scale
Schofield, M.B., Baker, I.S., Staples, P. and Sheffield, D. 2018. Creation and validation of the belief in the supernatural scale. Journal of Parapsychology. 82 (1), pp. 41-84. https://doi.org/10.3089l/jopar.2018.01.04Performance Under Stress: An Eye-Tracking Investigation of the Iowa Gambling Task (IGT)
Boban Simonovic, Edward J. N. Stupple, Maggie Gale, David Sheffield and Stupple, E. 2018. Performance Under Stress: An Eye-Tracking Investigation of the Iowa Gambling Task (IGT). Frontiers in Behavioral Neuroscience. https://doi.org/10.3389/fnbeh.2018.00217Mental health attitudes, self-criticism, compassion and role identity among UK social work students.
Kotera, Y., Green, Pauline Catherine and Sheffield, David 2018. Mental health attitudes, self-criticism, compassion and role identity among UK social work students. The British Journal Of Social Work. https://doi.org/10.1093/bjsw/bcy072Numeracy apprehension in young children: Insights from children aged 4-7 years and primary care providers
Petronzi, D., Staples, Paul, Sheffield, David and Fitton-Wilde, Sandra 2018. Numeracy apprehension in young children: Insights from children aged 4-7 years and primary care providers. Psychology and Education.Further development of the Children’s Mathematics Anxiety Scale UK (CMAS-UK) for ages 4–7 years
Petronzi, D., Staples, Paul, Sheffield, David, Hunt, Thomas E. and Fitton-Wilde, Sandra 2018. Further development of the Children’s Mathematics Anxiety Scale UK (CMAS-UK) for ages 4–7 years. Educational Studies in Mathematics. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10649-018-9860-1The applications of neuro-linguistic programming in organizational settings: A systematic review of psychological outcomes.
Kotera, Y., Sheffield, David and Van Gordon, William 2018. The applications of neuro-linguistic programming in organizational settings: A systematic review of psychological outcomes. Human Resource Development Quarterly. https://doi.org/10.1002/hrdq.21334Self-criticism and self-reassurance as mediators between mental health attitudes and symptoms: Attitudes towards mental health problems in Japanese workers.
Kotera, Y., Gilbert, Paul, Asano, Kenichi, Ishimura, Ikuo and Sheffield, David 2018. Self-criticism and self-reassurance as mediators between mental health attitudes and symptoms: Attitudes towards mental health problems in Japanese workers. Asian Journal of Social Psychology. https://doi.org/10.1111/ajsp.12355Exploring emptiness and its effects on non-attachment, mystical experiences, and psycho-spiritual wellbeing: a quantitative and qualitative study of advanced meditators.
Van Gordon, William, Shonin, Edo, Dunn, Thomas J., Sapthiang, Supakyada, Kotera, Y., Garcia-Campayo, Javier and Sheffield, David 2018. Exploring emptiness and its effects on non-attachment, mystical experiences, and psycho-spiritual wellbeing: a quantitative and qualitative study of advanced meditators. Explore: The Journal of Science and Healing. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.explore.2018.12.003Using behavioural insights to improve the healthiness of children’s packed lunches.
Jackson, Jessica, Ward, Derek, Giles, David, Bunten, Amanda, Howell-Jones, Rebecca and Burgess-Allen, Jilla 2017. Using behavioural insights to improve the healthiness of children’s packed lunches. Oxford University Press. https://doi.org/10.1093/eurpub/ckx187.316The integration of the workable range model into a mindfulness-based stress reduction course: a practice-based case study
Rose, Sally A., Sheffield, David and Harling, Martyn 2017. The integration of the workable range model into a mindfulness-based stress reduction course: a practice-based case study. Mindfulness. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12671-017-0787-xDifferences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers
Fryer, Simon, Stone, Keeron, Sveen, Joakim, Dickson, Tabitha, España-Romero, Vanesa, Giles, David, Baláš, Jiří, Stoner, Lee and Draper, Nick 2017. Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2017.1353135Forget cancer, let's MOVE: a behaviour change support model for physical activity for young people during and after cancer
Cross, Ainslea, Sheffield, David and Elander, James 2017. Forget cancer, let's MOVE: a behaviour change support model for physical activity for young people during and after cancer. Health Psychology Update.The role and value of medicines management work packages 1 & 2
Giles, David, Lewis, Rachel and Ward, Derek 2017. The role and value of medicines management work packages 1 & 2. Southern Derbyshire County Council.Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance
Fryer, Simon, Giles, David, Palomino, Inmaculada Garrido, Puerta, Alejandro de la O and Romero, Vanesa España 2018. Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860Shoulder muscle activity in sport climbing in naturally chosen and corrected shoulder positions
Baláš, Jiří, Duchačová, Alena, Giles, David, Kotalíková, Kateřina, Pánek, David and Draper, Nick 2017. Shoulder muscle activity in sport climbing in naturally chosen and corrected shoulder positions. The Open Sports Sciences Journal. https://doi.org/10.2174/1875399X01710010107An investigation into problematic smartphone use: The role of narcissism, anxiety, and personality factors
Hussain, Zaheer, Griffiths, Mark D. and Sheffield, David 2017. An investigation into problematic smartphone use: The role of narcissism, anxiety, and personality factors. Journal of Behavioral Addictions. https://doi.org/10.1556/2006.6.2017.052Examining the effects of rational emotive behavior therapy on performance outcomes in elite paralympic athletes
Wood, Andrew G., Barker, Jamie B., Turner, Martin J. and Sheffield, David 2017. Examining the effects of rational emotive behavior therapy on performance outcomes in elite paralympic athletes. Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports. https://doi.org/10.1111/sms.12926Beyond knowing nature: Contact, emotion, compassion, meaning, and beauty are pathways to nature connection
Ryan Lumber, Miles Richardson and David Sheffield 2017. Beyond knowing nature: Contact, emotion, compassion, meaning, and beauty are pathways to nature connection. PLos ONE. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0177186Blunted cardiovascular reactions are a predictor of negative health outcomes: A prospective cohort study
Yuenyongchaiwat, Kornanong and Sheffield, David 2017. Blunted cardiovascular reactions are a predictor of negative health outcomes: A prospective cohort study. Journal of Applied Biobehavioral Research. https://doi.org/10.1111/jabr.12091A longitudinal exploration of pain tolerance and participation in contact sports
Thornton, Claire, Sheffield, David and Baird, Andrew 2017. A longitudinal exploration of pain tolerance and participation in contact sports. Scandinavian Journal of Pain. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sjpain.2017.02.007Mental arithmetic performance, physiological reactivity and mathematics anxiety amongst U.K. primary school children
Hunt, Thomas E., Bhardwa, Janki and Sheffield, David 2017. Mental arithmetic performance, physiological reactivity and mathematics anxiety amongst U.K. primary school children. Learning and Individual Differences. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.lindif.2017.03.016The value of art therapy in antenatal and postnatal care: A brief literature review with recommendations for future research
Hogan, S., Sheffield, D. and Woodward, A. 2017. The value of art therapy in antenatal and postnatal care: A brief literature review with recommendations for future research. International Journal of Art Therapy: Inscape. https://doi.org/10.1080/17454832.2017.1299774Heart rate variability during exercise: A comparison of artefact correction methods
Giles, David and Draper, Nick 2018. Heart rate variability during exercise: A comparison of artefact correction methods. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000001800Mental contrasting as a behaviour change technique: a systematic review protocol paper of effects, mediators and moderators on health
Cross, Ainslea and Sheffield, David 2016. Mental contrasting as a behaviour change technique: a systematic review protocol paper of effects, mediators and moderators on health. Biomed Central. https://doi.org/10.1186/s13643-016-0382-6The effects of anxiety on temporal attention for emotive and neutral faces in children
Kelly, Lauren, Maratos, Frances A. and Lipka, Sigrid 2014. The effects of anxiety on temporal attention for emotive and neutral faces in children. Stress and Anxiety Research Society (STAR).Disney strategy for Japanese university students' career guidance: a mixed methods pilot study
Kotera, Y. and Sheffield, David 2017. Disney strategy for Japanese university students' career guidance: a mixed methods pilot study. Journal of the National Institute for Career Education and Counselling. https://doi.org/10.20856/jnicec.3808The physiological and emotional effects of touch: Assessing a hand-massage intervention with high self-critics
Maratos, Frances A., Duarte, Joana, Barnes, Christopher, McEwan, Kirsten, Sheffield, David and Gilbert, Paul 2017. The physiological and emotional effects of touch: Assessing a hand-massage intervention with high self-critics. Psychiatry Research. 250, pp. 221-227. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.psychres.2017.01.066Psychophysiological and emotional antecedents of climbing performance
Giles, David 2017. Psychophysiological and emotional antecedents of climbing performance. PhD Thesis https://doi.org/10.48773/93q91Pupil Dilation and Cognitive Reflection as Predictors of Performance on the Iowa Gambling Task
Simonovic, B., Stupple, E.J.N., Gale, M. and Sheffield, D. 2017. Pupil Dilation and Cognitive Reflection as Predictors of Performance on the Iowa Gambling Task. Cognitive Science Society.Development and validation of a short-form Pain Medication Attitudes Questionnaire (PMAQ-14)
Elander, James, Said, Omimah, Maratos, Frances A., Dys, Ada, Collins, Hannah and Schofield, M. 2017. Development and validation of a short-form Pain Medication Attitudes Questionnaire (PMAQ-14). Pain. 158 (3), pp. 400-407. https://doi.org/10.1097/j.pain.0000000000000773Children’s well-being and nature connectedness: Exploring the impact of a ‘3-good-things’ writing task on nature connectedness and well-being.
Harvey, Caroline, Sheffield, David and Richardson, Miles 2016. Children’s well-being and nature connectedness: Exploring the impact of a ‘3-good-things’ writing task on nature connectedness and well-being.Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers
Baláš, Jiří, Michailov, Michail, Giles, David, Kodejška, Jan, Panáčková, Michaela and Fryer, Simon 2015. Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198Physiological demands of indoor wall climbing in children
Panáčková, Michaela, Baláš, Jiří, Bunc, Václav and Giles, David 2015. Physiological demands of indoor wall climbing in children. Sports Technology. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2014.968251Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement
Draper, Nick, Giles, David, Schöffl, Volker, Konstantin Fuss, Franz, Watts, Phillip, Wolf, Peter, Baláš, Jiří, España-Romero, Vanesa, Blunt Gonzalez, Gina, Fryer, Simon, Fanchini, Maurizio, Vigouroux, Laurent, Seifert, Ludovic, Donath, Lars, Spoerri, Manuel, Bonetti, Kelios, Phillips, Kevin, Stöcker, Urs, Bourassa-Moreau, Felix, Garrido, Inmaculada, Drum, Scott, Beekmeyer, Stuart, Ziltener, Jean-Luc, Taylor, Nicola, Beeretz, Ina, Mally, Franziska, Mithat Amca, Arif, Linhart, Caroline and Abreu, Edgardo 2016. Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement. Sports Technology. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2015.1107081The impact of a school-based gardening intervention on intentions and behaviour related to fruit and vegetable consumption in children
Duncan, Michael J., Eyre, Emma, Bryant, Elizabeth, Clarke, Neil, Birch, Samantha, Staples, Vicki and Sheffield, David 2015. The impact of a school-based gardening intervention on intentions and behaviour related to fruit and vegetable consumption in children. Journal of Health Psychology. https://doi.org/10.1177/1359105315573445The effect of creative psychological interventions on psychological outcomes for adult cancer patients: a systematic review of randomised controlled trials
Archer, Stephanie, Buxton, Sarah and Sheffield, David 2014. The effect of creative psychological interventions on psychological outcomes for adult cancer patients: a systematic review of randomised controlled trials. Psycho-Oncology. https://doi.org/10.1002/pon.3607Symptoms of anxiety and depression are related to cardiovascular responses to active, but not passive, coping tasks
Yuenyongchaiwat, Kornanong, Baker, Ian S. and Sheffield, David 2016. Symptoms of anxiety and depression are related to cardiovascular responses to active, but not passive, coping tasks. Revista Brasileira de Psiquiatria. https://doi.org/10.1590/1516-4446-2016-1935Alterations in autonomic cardiac modulation in response to normobaric hypoxia
Giles, David, Kelly, John and Draper, Nick 2016. Alterations in autonomic cardiac modulation in response to normobaric hypoxia. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2016.1207708Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers
Giles, David, España-Romero, Vanesa, Garrido, Inmaculada, de la O Puerta, Alex, Stone, Keeron and Fryer, Simon 2016. Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. https://doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2015-0651Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance
Fryer, Simon, Stoner, Lee, Stone, Keeron, Giles, David, Sveen, Joakim, Garrido, Inmaculada and España-Romero, Vanesa 2016. Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance. European Journal of Applied Physiology. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-016-3403-1The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing
Baláš, Jiří, Giles, David, Chrastinová, Leona, Kárníková, Kateřina, Kodejška, Jan, Hlaváčková, Alžběta, Vomáčko, Ladislav and Draper, Nick 2016. The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2016.1206667The yips in sport: A systematic review
Philip Clarke, David Sheffield and Sally Akehurst 2015. The yips in sport: A systematic review. International Review of Sport and Exercise Psychology. https://doi.org/10.1080/1750984x.2015.1052088Becoming a performance analyst: autoethnographic reflections on agency, and facilitated transformational growth
Butterworth, Andrew D. and Turner, David J. 2014. Becoming a performance analyst: autoethnographic reflections on agency, and facilitated transformational growth. Reflective Practice. https://doi.org/10.1080/14623943.2014.900014The relationship between pain beliefs and physical and mental health outcome measures in chronic low back pain: direct and indirect effects
Baird, Andrew and Sheffield, David 2016. The relationship between pain beliefs and physical and mental health outcome measures in chronic low back pain: direct and indirect effects. Healthcare. https://doi.org/10.3390/healthcare4030058Current understanding in climbing psychophysiology research
Giles, David, Draper, Nick, Gilliver, Peter, Taylor, Nicola, Mitchell, James, Birch, Linda, Woodhead, Joseph, Blackwell, Gavin and Hamlin, Michael J. 2014. Current understanding in climbing psychophysiology research. Sports Technology. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2014.968166Three good things in nature: Noticing nearby nature brings sustained increases in connection with nature.
Richardson, Miles and Sheffield, David 2017. Three good things in nature: Noticing nearby nature brings sustained increases in connection with nature. PsyEcology. https://doi.org/10.1080/21711976.2016.1267136Joy and calm: how an evolutionary functional model of affect regulation informs positive emotions in nature
Richardson, Miles, McEwan, Kirsten, Maratos, Frances A. and Sheffield, David 2016. Joy and calm: how an evolutionary functional model of affect regulation informs positive emotions in nature. Evolutionary Psychological Science. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40806-016-0065-5Exploring the Relationship Between Mathematics Anxiety and Performance: An Eye-Tracking Approach
Hunt, Thomas E., Clark-Carter, David and Sheffield, David 2014. Exploring the Relationship Between Mathematics Anxiety and Performance: An Eye-Tracking Approach. Applied Cognitive Psychology. https://doi.org/10.1002/acp.3099Math anxiety, intrusive thoughts and performance: Exploring the relationship between mathematics anxiety and performance: The role of intrusive thoughts
Hunt, Thomas E., Clark-Carter, David and Sheffield, David 2014. Math anxiety, intrusive thoughts and performance: Exploring the relationship between mathematics anxiety and performance: The role of intrusive thoughts. Journal of Education, Psychology and Social Sciences.Attentional bias towards threatening and neutral facial expressions in high trait anxious children.
Kelly, Lauren, Maratos, Frances A., Lipka, Sigrid and Croker, Steve 2016. Attentional bias towards threatening and neutral facial expressions in high trait anxious children. Journal of Experimental Psychopathology. https://doi.org/10.5127/jep.052915Brief report: Self-compassion, physical health and the mediating role of health-promoting behaviours.
Dunne S, Sheffield D and Chilcot J 2016. Brief report: Self-compassion, physical health and the mediating role of health-promoting behaviours. Journal of Health Psychology. https://doi.org/10.1177/1359105316643377Nature: A New Paradigm for Well-being and Ergonomics.
Richardson M, Maspero M, Golightly D, Sheffield D, Staples V and Lumber R 2016. Nature: A New Paradigm for Well-being and Ergonomics. Ergonomics. https://doi.org/10.1080/00140139.2016.1157213Visual processing speeds in children
Maratos, Frances A. and Croker, Steve 2011. Visual processing speeds in children. Child Development Research. https://doi.org/10.1155/2011/450178Manipulating cardiovascular indices of challenge and threat using resource appraisals.
Turner, Martin J., Jones, Marc V., Sheffield, David, Barker, Jamie B. and Coffee, Peter 2014. Manipulating cardiovascular indices of challenge and threat using resource appraisals. International Journal of Psychophysiology. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpsycho.2014.07.004Validity of the Polar V800 heart rate monitor to measure RR intervals at rest
Neil, William, Giles, David and Draper, Nick 2015. Validity of the Polar V800 heart rate monitor to measure RR intervals at rest. European Journal of Applied Physiology. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-015-3303-9The Impact of Children’s Connection to Nature. A Report for the Royal Society of the Protection of Birds (RSPB)
Richardson, M., Sheffield, D., Harvey, C. and Petronzi, D. 2016. The Impact of Children’s Connection to Nature. A Report for the Royal Society of the Protection of Birds (RSPB). Derby RSPB.Stress and risky decision making: Cognitive reflection, emotional learning or both.
Simonovic, B., Stupple, Edward J. N., Gale, Maggie and Sheffield, David 2016. Stress and risky decision making: Cognitive reflection, emotional learning or both. Journal of Behavioral Decision Making. https://doi.org/10.1002/bdm.1980Mental representations of the supernatural: A cluster analysis of religiosity, spirituality and paranormal belief
Schofield, M., Baker, Ian S., Staples, Paul and Sheffield, David 2016. Mental representations of the supernatural: A cluster analysis of religiosity, spirituality and paranormal belief. Personality and Individual Differences. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.paid.2016.06.020Recognition of subtle and universal facial expressions in a community-based sample of adults classified with intellectual disability
Owen, S. and Maratos, Frances A. 2016. Recognition of subtle and universal facial expressions in a community-based sample of adults classified with intellectual disability. Journal of Intellectual Disability Research. 60 (4), pp. 344-354. https://doi.org/10.1111/jir.12253Investigating the relationship between consultation length and patient experience: A cross-sectional study in primary care
Elmore, N., Burt, J., Abel, G., Maratos, F.A., Montague, J., Campbell, J. and Roland, M. 2016. Investigating the relationship between consultation length and patient experience: A cross-sectional study in primary care. British Journal of General Practice. 66 (653), pp. 896-903. https://doi.org/10.3399/bjgp16x687733Do Cardiovascular Responses to Active and Passive Coping Tasks predict Future Blood Pressure over a 10-Month Later?
Yuenyongchaiwat, Kornanong, Baker, Ian S., Maratos, Frances A. and Sheffield, David 2016. Do Cardiovascular Responses to Active and Passive Coping Tasks predict Future Blood Pressure over a 10-Month Later? The Spanish Journal of Psychology. 19. https://doi.org/10.1017/sjp.2016.5Development of the critical thinking toolkit (CriTT): A measure of student attitudes and beliefs about critical thinking
Stupple, Edward J. N., Maratos, Frances A., Elander, James, Hunt, Thomas E., Cheung, Kevin Yet Fong and Aubeeluck, Aimee 2016. Development of the critical thinking toolkit (CriTT): A measure of student attitudes and beliefs about critical thinking. Thinking Skills and Creativity. 23, pp. 91-100. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tsc.2016.11.007'Everything's from the inside out with PCOS': Exploring women's experiences of living with polycystic ovary syndrome and co-morbidities through Skype interviews
Williams, Sophie, Sheffield, David and Knibb, Rebecca C. 2015. 'Everything's from the inside out with PCOS': Exploring women's experiences of living with polycystic ovary syndrome and co-morbidities through Skype interviews. Health Psychology Open. https://doi.org/10.1177/2055102915603051A snapshot of the lives of women with polycystic ovary syndrome: A photovoice investigation.
Williams, Sophie, Sheffield, David and Knibb, Rebecca C. 2014. A snapshot of the lives of women with polycystic ovary syndrome: A photovoice investigation. Journal of Health Psychology. https://doi.org/10.1177/1359105314547941The development and part validation of a U.K. scale for mathematics anxiety
Hunt, Thomas E., Clark-Carter, David and Sheffield, David 2011. The development and part validation of a U.K. scale for mathematics anxiety. Journal of Psychoeducational Assessment. https://doi.org/10.1177/0734282910392892Reflective self-attention: A more stable predictor of connection to nature than mindful attention.
Richardson, Miles and Sheffield, David 2015. Reflective self-attention: A more stable predictor of connection to nature than mindful attention. Ecopsychology. https://doi.org/10.1089/eco.2015.0010Cognitive and affective components of challenge and threat states
Meijen, Carla, Jones, Marc V., McCarthy, Paul J., Sheffield, David and Allen, Mark S. 2013. Cognitive and affective components of challenge and threat states. Journal of Sports Sciences. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2012.753157Hemodynamic responses to active and passive coping tasks and the prediction of future blood pressure in Thai participants: A preliminary prospective cohort study
Yuenyongchaiwat, K., Sheffield, D., Baker, I. and Maratos, F. 2015. Hemodynamic responses to active and passive coping tasks and the prediction of future blood pressure in Thai participants: A preliminary prospective cohort study. Japanese Psychological Research. 57 (4), pp. 288-299. https://doi.org/10.1111/jpr.12089When is a face a face? Schematic faces, emotion, attention and the N170
Maratos, F.A., Garner, M., Hogan, A.M. and Karl, A. 2015. When is a face a face? Schematic faces, emotion, attention and the N170. AIMS Neuroscience. 2 (3), pp. 172-182. https://doi.org/10.3934/neuroscience.2015.3.172Do therapeutic imagery practices affect physiological and emotional indicators of threat in high self-critics?
Duarte, Joana, McEwan, Kirsten, Barnes, Christopher, Gilbert, Paul and Maratos, Frances A. 2015. Do therapeutic imagery practices affect physiological and emotional indicators of threat in high self-critics? Psychology and Psychotherapy: Theory, Research and Practice. https://doi.org/10.1111/papt.12043Attentional biases towards familiar and unfamiliar foods in children. The role of food neophobia
Maratos, Frances A. and Staples, Paul 2015. Attentional biases towards familiar and unfamiliar foods in children. The role of food neophobia. Appetite. 91, pp. 220-225. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.appet.2015.04.003Facial expressions depicting compassionate and critical emotions: the development and validation of a new emotional face stimulus set
McEwan, Kirsten, Gilbert, Paul, Dandeneau, Stephane, Lipka, Sigrid, Maratos, Frances A., Paterson, Kevin B. and Baldwin, Mark 2014. Facial expressions depicting compassionate and critical emotions: the development and validation of a new emotional face stimulus set. PLos ONE. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0088783Emotion based attentional priority for storage in visual short-term memory
Simione, Luca, Calabrese, Lucia, Belardinelli, Marta Olivetti, Marucci, Francesco Saverio, Raffone, Antonino and Maratos, Frances A. 2014. Emotion based attentional priority for storage in visual short-term memory. PLos ONE. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0095261Who thrives under pressure? predicting the performance of elite academy cricketers using the cardiovascular indicators of challenge and threat states
Turner, Martin J., Jones, Marc V., Sheffield, David, Slater, Matthew J., Barker, Jamie B. and Bell, James J. 2013. Who thrives under pressure? predicting the performance of elite academy cricketers using the cardiovascular indicators of challenge and threat states.