Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers
Journal article
Authors | Fryer, Simon, Stone, Keeron, Sveen, Joakim, Dickson, Tabitha, España-Romero, Vanesa, Giles, David, Baláš, Jiří, Stoner, Lee and Draper, Nick |
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Abstract | This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (mV̇O2) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force–time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed. MVC was significantly greater in boulderers compared to lead climbers (mean difference = 9.6, 95% CI 5.2–14 kg). FDP and EDC oxidative capacity indexes were significantly greater (p = .041 and .013, respectively) in lead climbers and boulderers compared to controls (mean difference = −1.166, 95% CI (−3.264 to 0.931 s) and mean difference = −1.120, 95% CI (−3.316 to 1.075 s), respectively) with no differences between climbing disciplines. Climbers had a significantly greater FTI compared to controls (mean difference = 2205, 95% CI= 1114–3296 and mean difference = 1716, 95% CI = 553–2880, respectively) but not between disciplines. There were no significant group differences in ΔFAV or mV̇O2. The greater MVC in boulderers may be due to neural adaptation and not hypertrophy. A greater oxidative capacity index in both climbing groups suggests that irrespective of climbing discipline, trainers, coaches, and practitioners should consider forearm specific aerobic training to aid performance. |
Keywords | Oxidative capacity; Microvascular adaptation; Near infrared spectroscopy; Blood flow; Perfusion; Sport climbing; Rock climbing; Bouldering |
Year | 2017 |
Journal | European Journal of Sport Science |
Publisher | Taylor & Francis |
ISSN | 17461391 |
15367290 | |
Digital Object Identifier (DOI) | https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2017.1353135 |
Web address (URL) | http://hdl.handle.net/10545/621905 |
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ | |
hdl:10545/621905 | |
Publication dates | 28 Jul 2017 |
Publication process dates | |
Deposited | 25 Oct 2017, 15:30 |
Accepted | 30 Jun 2017 |
Rights | Archived with thanks to European Journal of Sport Science |
Contributors | University of Gloucestershire, Edinburgh Napier University, University of Cadiz, University of Derby, Charles University, University of North Carolina, University of Canterbury, School of Sport and Exercise, Faculty of Applied Sciences, University of Gloucestershire, Gloucester, UK, School of Sport and Exercise, Faculty of Applied Sciences, University of Gloucestershire, Gloucester, UK, School of Life, Sport and Social Sciences, Edinburgh Napier University, Edinburgh, UK, School of Sport and Exercise, Faculty of Applied Sciences, University of Gloucestershire, Gloucester, UK, Department of Physical Education, School of Education, University of Cadiz, Cadiz, Spain, Department of Life Sciences, College of Life and Natural Sciences, University of Derby, Buxton, UK, Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic, Department of Sport and Exercise, University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill, NC, USA and School of Health Sciences, College of Education, Health and Human Development, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand |
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https://repository.derby.ac.uk/item/93wz1/differences-in-forearm-strength-endurance-and-hemodynamic-kinetics-between-male-boulderers-and-lead-rock-climbers
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