Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers

Journal article


Fryer, Simon, Stone, Keeron, Sveen, Joakim, Dickson, Tabitha, España-Romero, Vanesa, Giles, David, Baláš, Jiří, Stoner, Lee and Draper, Nick 2017. Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2017.1353135
AuthorsFryer, Simon, Stone, Keeron, Sveen, Joakim, Dickson, Tabitha, España-Romero, Vanesa, Giles, David, Baláš, Jiří, Stoner, Lee and Draper, Nick
Abstract

This study examined differences in the oxygenation kinetics and strength and endurance characteristics of boulderers and lead sport climbers. Using near infrared spectroscopy, 13-boulderers, 10-lead climbers, and 10-controls completed assessments of oxidative capacity index and muscle oxygen consumption (mV̇O2) in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), and extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Additionally, forearm strength (maximal volitional contraction MVC), endurance (force–time integral FTI at 40% MVC), and forearm volume (FAV and ΔFAV) was assessed. MVC was significantly greater in boulderers compared to lead climbers (mean difference = 9.6, 95% CI 5.2–14 kg). FDP and EDC oxidative capacity indexes were significantly greater (p = .041 and .013, respectively) in lead climbers and boulderers compared to controls (mean difference = −1.166, 95% CI (−3.264 to 0.931 s) and mean difference = −1.120, 95% CI (−3.316 to 1.075 s), respectively) with no differences between climbing disciplines. Climbers had a significantly greater FTI compared to controls (mean difference = 2205, 95% CI= 1114–3296 and mean difference = 1716, 95% CI = 553–2880, respectively) but not between disciplines. There were no significant group differences in ΔFAV or mV̇O2. The greater MVC in boulderers may be due to neural adaptation and not hypertrophy. A greater oxidative capacity index in both climbing groups suggests that irrespective of climbing discipline, trainers, coaches, and practitioners should consider forearm specific aerobic training to aid performance.

KeywordsOxidative capacity; Microvascular adaptation; Near infrared spectroscopy; Blood flow; Perfusion; Sport climbing; Rock climbing; Bouldering
Year2017
JournalEuropean Journal of Sport Science
PublisherTaylor & Francis
ISSN17461391
15367290
Digital Object Identifier (DOI)https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2017.1353135
Web address (URL)http://hdl.handle.net/10545/621905
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
hdl:10545/621905
Publication dates28 Jul 2017
Publication process dates
Deposited25 Oct 2017, 15:30
Accepted30 Jun 2017
Rights

Archived with thanks to European Journal of Sport Science

ContributorsUniversity of Gloucestershire, Edinburgh Napier University, University of Cadiz, University of Derby, Charles University, University of North Carolina, University of Canterbury, School of Sport and Exercise, Faculty of Applied Sciences, University of Gloucestershire, Gloucester, UK, School of Sport and Exercise, Faculty of Applied Sciences, University of Gloucestershire, Gloucester, UK, School of Life, Sport and Social Sciences, Edinburgh Napier University, Edinburgh, UK, School of Sport and Exercise, Faculty of Applied Sciences, University of Gloucestershire, Gloucester, UK, Department of Physical Education, School of Education, University of Cadiz, Cadiz, Spain, Department of Life Sciences, College of Life and Natural Sciences, University of Derby, Buxton, UK, Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic, Department of Sport and Exercise, University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill, NC, USA and School of Health Sciences, College of Education, Health and Human Development, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand
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https://repository.derby.ac.uk/item/93wz1/differences-in-forearm-strength-endurance-and-hemodynamic-kinetics-between-male-boulderers-and-lead-rock-climbers

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