Shoulder muscle activity in sport climbing in naturally chosen and corrected shoulder positions
Journal article
| Authors | Baláš, Jiří, Duchačová, Alena, Giles, David, Kotalíková, Kateřina, Pánek, David and Draper, Nick |
|---|---|
| Abstract | Objective: The aim of the study was to determine electromyographic activity of the scapula stabilizing muscles in naturally chosen and corrected shoulder positions in typical static climbing postures. Methods: Six male participants undertook surface electromyography measurement in four climbing postures for two different shoulder positions. The activity of the lower, middle and upper trapezius, serratus anterior, pectoralis major, and sternocleidomastoid was recorded. Electromyographic activity was expressed as the percentage of maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) for each muscle. Results: Climbing postures induced higher activation of middle and lower trapezius in corrected shoulder positions (35.3 ± 11.8 and 61.7 ± 15.4% MVC respectively) than in naturally chosen shoulder positions (18.4 ± 8.9 and 30.1 ± 13.8% MVC respectively). The highest activity of the middle and lower trapezius was found in postures with the arm in external rotation and 90° abduction and in an overhanging posture. Low activation was stated for the other muscles in both shoulder conditions. Conclusion: Results showed that climbers naturally elevate the shoulder during typical static postures. Corrected shoulder positions induce higher activation of the scapula stabilizing muscles than naturally chosen shoulder positions. |
Objective: The aim of the study was to determine electromyographic activity of the scapula stabilizing muscles in naturally chosen and corrected shoulder positions in typical static climbing postures. | |
| Keywords | Rock climbing; Surface electromyography; Scapula; Trapezius; Physiotherapy; Injury |
| Year | 2017 |
| Journal | The Open Sports Sciences Journal |
| Publisher | Bentham Open |
| ISSN | 1875399X |
| Digital Object Identifier (DOI) | https://doi.org/10.2174/1875399X01710010107 |
| Web address (URL) | http://hdl.handle.net/10545/621875 |
| http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ | |
| hdl:10545/621875 | |
| Publication dates | 31 May 2017 |
| Publication process dates | |
| Deposited | 04 Oct 2017, 11:32 |
| Accepted | 15 Mar 2017 |
| Rights | Archived with thanks to The Open Sports Sciences Journal |
| Contributors | Charles University, University of Derby and University of Cantebury |
| File | File Access Level Open |
| File | File Access Level Open |
| File | File Access Level Open |
https://repository.derby.ac.uk/item/953yy/shoulder-muscle-activity-in-sport-climbing-in-naturally-chosen-and-corrected-shoulder-positions
Download files
36
total views15
total downloads1
views this month2
downloads this month
Export as
Related outputs
A pragmatic controlled trial of forest bathing compared with compassionate mind training in the UK: impacts on self- reported wellbeing and heart rate variability
McEwan, Kirsten, Giles, David, Clarke, Fiona, Kotera, Y., Evans, Gary, Terebenina, Olga, Minou, Lina, Teeling, Claire, Basran, Jaskaran, Wood, Wendy and Weil, Dominic 2021. A pragmatic controlled trial of forest bathing compared with compassionate mind training in the UK: impacts on self- reported wellbeing and heart rate variability. Sustainability. 13 (3). https://doi.org/10.3390/su13031380
The visual search strategies underpinning effective observational analysis in the coaching of climbing movement
Mitchell, James, Maratos, Frances, A, Giles, David, Taylor, Nicola, Butterworth, Andrew and Sheffield, David 2020. The visual search strategies underpinning effective observational analysis in the coaching of climbing movement. Frontiers. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2020.01025Using figured worlds to explore parents' attitudes and influences for choosing the content of primary school packed lunches
Jackson, Jessica, Giles, David and Gerrard, Clarabelle 2019. Using figured worlds to explore parents' attitudes and influences for choosing the content of primary school packed lunches. MAG Online Library. https://doi.org/10.12968/bjsn.2019.14.7.335The determination of finger flexor critical force in rock climbers
Giles, David, Chidley, J., Taylor, Nicola, Torr, Ollie, Hadley, Josh, Randall, Tom and Fryer, Simon 2019. The determination of finger flexor critical force in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance.Evaluating the role of patient facing pharmacists in a GP practice setting.
Lewis, Rachel and Giles, David 2018. Evaluating the role of patient facing pharmacists in a GP practice setting.Oral nutritional supplements in care homes and the community: Nutrition review and staff education.
Giles, David, Lewis, Rachel and Ward, Derek 2018. Oral nutritional supplements in care homes and the community: Nutrition review and staff education. University of Derby.Physical activity and sport evaluation toolkit.
Giles, David 2018. Physical activity and sport evaluation toolkit. County Sports Partnerships Network.Using behavioural insights to improve the healthiness of children’s packed lunches.
Jackson, Jessica, Ward, Derek, Giles, David, Bunten, Amanda, Howell-Jones, Rebecca and Burgess-Allen, Jilla 2017. Using behavioural insights to improve the healthiness of children’s packed lunches. Oxford University Press. https://doi.org/10.1093/eurpub/ckx187.316Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers
Fryer, Simon, Stone, Keeron, Sveen, Joakim, Dickson, Tabitha, España-Romero, Vanesa, Giles, David, Baláš, Jiří, Stoner, Lee and Draper, Nick 2017. Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2017.1353135The role and value of medicines management work packages 1 & 2
Giles, David, Lewis, Rachel and Ward, Derek 2017. The role and value of medicines management work packages 1 & 2. Southern Derbyshire County Council.Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance
Fryer, Simon, Giles, David, Palomino, Inmaculada Garrido, Puerta, Alejandro de la O and Romero, Vanesa España 2018. Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860Heart rate variability during exercise: A comparison of artefact correction methods
Giles, David and Draper, Nick 2018. Heart rate variability during exercise: A comparison of artefact correction methods. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0000000000001800Psychophysiological and emotional antecedents of climbing performance
Giles, David 2017. Psychophysiological and emotional antecedents of climbing performance. PhD Thesis https://doi.org/10.48773/93q91Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers
Baláš, Jiří, Michailov, Michail, Giles, David, Kodejška, Jan, Panáčková, Michaela and Fryer, Simon 2015. Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198Physiological demands of indoor wall climbing in children
Panáčková, Michaela, Baláš, Jiří, Bunc, Václav and Giles, David 2015. Physiological demands of indoor wall climbing in children. Sports Technology. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2014.968251Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement
Draper, Nick, Giles, David, Schöffl, Volker, Konstantin Fuss, Franz, Watts, Phillip, Wolf, Peter, Baláš, Jiří, España-Romero, Vanesa, Blunt Gonzalez, Gina, Fryer, Simon, Fanchini, Maurizio, Vigouroux, Laurent, Seifert, Ludovic, Donath, Lars, Spoerri, Manuel, Bonetti, Kelios, Phillips, Kevin, Stöcker, Urs, Bourassa-Moreau, Felix, Garrido, Inmaculada, Drum, Scott, Beekmeyer, Stuart, Ziltener, Jean-Luc, Taylor, Nicola, Beeretz, Ina, Mally, Franziska, Mithat Amca, Arif, Linhart, Caroline and Abreu, Edgardo 2016. Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement. Sports Technology. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2015.1107081Alterations in autonomic cardiac modulation in response to normobaric hypoxia
Giles, David, Kelly, John and Draper, Nick 2016. Alterations in autonomic cardiac modulation in response to normobaric hypoxia. European Journal of Sport Science. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2016.1207708Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers
Giles, David, España-Romero, Vanesa, Garrido, Inmaculada, de la O Puerta, Alex, Stone, Keeron and Fryer, Simon 2016. Differences in oxygenation kinetics between the dominant and non-dominant flexor digitorum profundus in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. https://doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2015-0651Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance
Fryer, Simon, Stoner, Lee, Stone, Keeron, Giles, David, Sveen, Joakim, Garrido, Inmaculada and España-Romero, Vanesa 2016. Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance. European Journal of Applied Physiology. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-016-3403-1The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing
Baláš, Jiří, Giles, David, Chrastinová, Leona, Kárníková, Kateřina, Kodejška, Jan, Hlaváčková, Alžběta, Vomáčko, Ladislav and Draper, Nick 2016. The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2016.1206667Current understanding in climbing psychophysiology research
Giles, David, Draper, Nick, Gilliver, Peter, Taylor, Nicola, Mitchell, James, Birch, Linda, Woodhead, Joseph, Blackwell, Gavin and Hamlin, Michael J. 2014. Current understanding in climbing psychophysiology research. Sports Technology. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2014.968166